THAT Edin Gondzic knocks out a decent dinner at his deli-cafe in Broad Street. Last year I saw off a high-value effort before crossing the road to see a meaningful flick at Broadway.
Edin can now also be found round the corner in Carlton Street, the main drag through Hockley, in a bijou establishment named, depending on your chosen source of information, Edin's Kitchen, Edin's Natural Kitchen or Edin's Patisserie Bar and Kitchen.
Whatever, it is to be found in an old jeweller's shop behind a miniature run of outdoor tables that I didn't consider occupying on what was the first squally day of autumn.
Inside, the place looks a treat, with rickety Bohemian furniture on the business side of a most attractive counter loaded with dried flowers, bottles of wine and cordial, meringue-topped pies and weapons-grade chocolate cake.
I took my place at one of three balloon-backed stools around a tiny table next to the staircase. Had there been a blaze, I would have been in charge of the hairspray-sized fire extinguisher.
Happily there were no emergencies and I got on with my starter, a substantial bowl of thick, well-seasoned butternut squash soup.
It was remarkable for two features. First the presence of cumin seeds – an original touch but one that gave the broth a spicy lift into a realm apart from the standard autumn seasonal offering. It's a terrific combination.
The other remarkable feature was the temperature of the soup. There seems to be a conspiracy in the trade to serve every soup as if it is a gazpacho or vichyssoise – close to stone cold; lukewarm if you are lucky. This was served at proper soup temperature, with steam wafting aromatically off the ochre surface.
The soup came with three slices of bread and two pats of butter. To keep the quack onside I swerved one slice of bread and both the butter pats.
The main course: penne with smoked bacon, chicken and mushrooms in a tomato ragu.
I prefer a longer pasta but the chief virtue of tubular penne is that two pieces sit firmly around the tines of a fork, thus reducing the chances of ragu splattering over the spectacles as the last centimetre of spaghetti or linguine is sucked sharply between the lips.
There was plenty of bacon, chicken and mushrooms to make this a proper main course. I'd have happily coughed a tenner for the pleasure but the two dishes together came with a luncheon special tab of £7.50. The good quality and low price made it sensational value, so a rare four stars for me.
Things got better with dessert – a generous wedge of the classic sachertorte that had been winking and blowing kisses at me from behind the glass on the lower tier of the counter display.
At a Viennese café you'd peel off a ten-euro note for sachertorte no better than this. The cake itself was moist and rich in chocolate with heavy hints of apricot, and the ganache was simply gorgeous. Again, great value at under £4.
Finally, a word for the service, which was charmingly done by a team who looked as if they cared about what they were doing. Thoroughly recommended.